山の辞典(日本語版)
これは、Carl J. Ockierさんの"The Climbing Dictionary"に日本語訳を加えたものです。
(のついた見出し語は、私自身が追加したものです。)
日本語訳にあたりまして、「英和・仏和山岳用語集」の著者の方やクライミングメーリングリストの
方々などのご協力をいただきました。
その他の国内外の登山用語集のページは以下の通りです。
見出し語は英語で、各国語は、以下のようにラベルされています。
(d) German, (f) French, (f-c) Canadian French, (nl) Dutch, (i) Italian,
(e) Spanish, (s) Swedish, (pl) Polish and (j) Japanese
このページは、ウムラウト等の特殊記号を除いて表示しています。
これらの特殊記号を表示したページはこちらです。
ただし、古いブラウザでは文字化けすることがあります。
[A]
[B]
[C]
[D]
[E]
[F]
[G]
[H]
[I]
[J]
[K]
[L]
[M]
[N]
[O]
[P]
[Q]
[R]
[S]
[T]
[U]
[V]
[W]
[X]
[Y]
[Z]
- Abseiling
- Descending by sliding down a rope. Americans usually call
this rappelling.
(d) Abseilen, (f) Descendre en rappel, (nl) Afdalen / abseilen,
(i) Calarsi, (e) Rapelar / descenso en rappel, (s) fira,
(j) 懸垂下降、ラペル
- Adze
- The flat cutting end of the ice axe head.
(j) (ピッケルの)ブレード
- Aid climbing
- Moving up a rock using fixed or placed protecting as a means
of progression (and not just for protection). Also known in the
US as sixth class climbing.
(d) Technisch klettern, (f) (Escalade) artificielle / Artif, (nl) Artificieel
klimmen, (i) Arrampicata artificiale, (e) Escalada artificial,
(s) Teknisk klattring / Artificiell klattring, (j) 人工登攀
(注:"free climbing"と対象)
- Aider
- Webbing ladder used for aid climbing. The word was probably
coined by someone who couldn't spell the french word etrier.
(d) Die Leiter, (f) Etrier, (nl) Ladder, (i) Staffa, (e)
Estribo, (s) Stegar, (j) あぶみ
- Aid route
- Route that can only be ascended using aid climbing techniques
(d) Die Techno-route, (f) Voie d'artif, (i) Via in artificiale,
(e) Ruta artificial, (j) 人工ルート
- Alcove
- A belay ledge that is surrounded by vertical rock on all sides.
(j) テラス
- Alps
- (f) Alpes, (j) アルプス(アルプス山群)
- Altitude
- (f) Altitude, (j) 標高
- AMS
- Acute mountain sickness. (Ask your medical doctor.)
(j) 急性高山病
- Anchor
- Point where the rope is fixed to the rock.
(d) Fixpunkt / Verankerung, (f) Relais / Point d'assurage / Amarrage /
Ancrage (de securite), (f-c)
Point d'ancrage, (nl) Zekeringspunt, (i) Ancoraggio, (e) Anclaje
/ Punto de seguro, (s) Ankare / Forankring, (j) アンカー、確保支点
- Andesite
- (f) Andesite, (j) 安山岩
- Angle piton
- (f) Angulaire, (j) アングルピトン
- Aplite
- (f) Aplite, (j) アプライト、細かい花崗岩
- Arete
- A narrow (more or less - but often more less than more - horizontal)
ridge. In the US, the word arete is also used to indicate an outside
corner.
(d) Grat, (f) Arete, (nl) graat, (i) Cresta, (e) Cresta / Cuchilla,
(j) アレート、グラート、カンテ、リッジ cf. ザイテングラート
- Ascenders
- Devices (e.g. Jumars) to ascend a rope.
(d) Steigklemmen, (f) Jumards / Poignees ascensionnelles,
(nl) Stijgklemmen, (i) Maniglie / Ascensori, (e) Ascensores / Jumars,
(s) Repklammor, (j) 登高器
- ATC
- 'Air Trafic Controller', belaying device made by Black Diamond.
- Avalanche
- Lots of snow or ice sliding down a mountain.
(d) Lawine, (f) Avalanche, (nl) Lawine, (i) Valanga, (e) Avalancha,
(s) Lavin, (pl) Lawina, (j) 雪崩
- Bail, to
- To give up on a rock climb or a summit attempt because of
bad weather coming in.
(f) Marquer le but, (j) 敗退する
- Base camp
- The lowest and largest fixed camp on a major ascent (or multiple
ascents in the same area).
(d) Basislager, (f) Camp de base, (nl) Basiskamp, (i) Campo base,
(e) Campamento base, (s) Baslager, (pl) Obozowisko, (j) ベース・キャンプ
- Beer
- Liquid consumed in large quantities after climbing.
(d) Bier, (f) Biere / mousse, (f-c) Broue, (nl) Bier / Pintje,
(i) Birra, (e) Cerveza, (s) Ol, (pl) Piwo, (j) ビール
- Belay, to
- To secure a climber.
(d) Sichern, (f) Assurer, (nl) Zekeren, (i) Assicurare, (e) Asegurar
/ Dar seguridad, (s) Sakra, (pl) Ubezpieczac, (j) 確保する
- Belay station
- A safe stance consisting of an anchor, a rope, and a belayer
(aka "the belay")
(d) Standplatz, (f) Relais, (nl) Standplaats, (i) Sosta, (e) Punto
de encuentro, Reunion, (s) Standplats, (pl) Stanowisko, (j) 確保点
- Belayer
- The person at the belay station securing the climber.
(d) Sicherungsmann / frau, (f) Assureur, (nl) Zekeraar, (i) Assicuratore / trice,
(e) Asegurador, (s) Sakringsman, (pl) Asekurant, (j) 確保者
- "Belay on"
- When the belayer is ready to belay the climber up, he yells
"Belay on". (At least in the US, "belay on"
would only confuse the hell out of a British climber who prefers
to hear "Climb when ready").
(d) "Nachkommen", (f) "Quand tu veux", (f-c)
"Assure", (nl) "Nakomen", (i) "Puoi
venire", (e) "Sube" / "Vienes", (s) "Sakring
klar", (j) 「登っていいよ」
- "Below"
- Used in Britain to warn for impending impact with objects
coming from above (e.g. falling rock). "Rock" in the
US.
(d) "Stein", (f) "Cailloux" ("Pierre"
is a common French name and might cause confusion with those individuals
that respond to that name), (f-c) "Roche", (i) "Sasso",
(e) "Piedra", (s) "Sten", (j) 「落石!」
(注:北米ではあまり耳にしない)
- Bent gate karibiner
- Karibiner with the gate bent to accept the rope more easily.
Not uncontroversial.
(d) Bananenkarabiner, (f) Mousqueton coude / Mousqueton a
doigt coude, (i) Moschettone a barra ricurva, (e) Mosqueton
express, (s) Karbin med bojd grind,
(j) ベント・ゲート型カラビナ、くの字型カラビナ
- (d) "Berg Heil !"
- A German greeting at the summit.
(j) 「登頂おめでとう!」
- Bergschrund
- Or just 'schrund'. The top crevasse in a glacier or snowfield
that is formed when the glacier / snowfield tears away from the
remaining patch of snow that is stable on the mountainside.
(f) Rimaye, (j) ベルクシュルント(氷河上部と上部雪田の間に発生したシュルント、
クレバス)
- Beta
- Insider information about a climb. Running or auto beta is
someone telling you how to do the moves as you go (as in "can
you please shut up with that running beta, I want to find out
myself").
(d) Informationen vor dem Start, (f) Description de la voie, (i)
Informazioni, (j) 岩場のルートのムーブに関する情報
- Beta flash
- Leading a climb with no falling or dogging, but with a piece
of previous knowledge hints on how to do those crux moves. Even
seeing someone do the climb already classifies as 'previous knowledge'.
(d) Flash mit Ansage, (f) Flash, (j) フラッシング
- Big wall
- Rock climb that is so long and sustained that a normal ascent
lasts several days.
(d) Big Wall, (f) Voie longue, (f-c) Grand mur, (e) Gran Pared,
(s) Storoagg / Bigwall, (j) ビッグウォール
(普通は完登するのに数日かかる)
- Biner
- Short for Karabiner
(d) Kara, (f) Mouskif / Mousquet, (e) Mosquete / Mosqueton, (s) Karbin,
(j) ビナ(カラビナの略称)
- Birdbeak
- A tiny hooked piton manufactured by A5. It is similar to the
old Chouinard "Crack'n up", except that it only has
a single side and that it is intended to be hammered in if necessary.
(j) バードビーク
- Bivouac
- Or short, bivi. An uncomfortable sleeping place in the middle
of a route.
(d) Biwak, (f) Bivouac, (nl) Bivak, (i) Bivacco, (e) Bivac, (s)
Bivack, (pl) Biwak, (j) ビバーク
- Black ice
- Old ice that was exposed to extremely cold temperatures, scree,
and snowfall. Usually found deep in shady couloirs, or on steep
north faces. Very hard and dense ice that is difficult to climb.
(f) Glace noire, (j) ブラックアイス(黒っぽく凍った高山の日陰にある氷)
- Blast, to
- To begin a big wall, after the line fixing is done. "We're
gonna blast on Tuesday morning after we get the first three pitches
fixed".
(j) 素早くどんどん登り始める
- Bleauser
- French term. Going to boulder at 'Bleau (short for Fontainebleau,
the site of some excellent bouldering near Paris)
(j) ボルダーをする cf. Bleausard ボルダラー
- Blue ice
- Very dense ice with a watery hue and few air bubbles.
(f) Glace bleue, (j) ブルーアイス、蒼氷
- Bolt
-
(d) Spit, (f) Spit, (i) Spit, (e) Spits / Bolt, (s) Bult, (pl)
Spit, (j) (ペツルタイプ)ボルト
- Bolt, expansion
- (d) Bohrhaken, (f) Cheville a expansion, (nl) Boorhaak,
(i) Caviglie da espansione, (e) Clavija de expansion / parabolt,
(s) Borrbult, (j) エクスパンジョンアンカー、拡張式アンカー
(拡張式の埋め込みボルト:ネジ締め式と叩き込み式がある)
※英語ではペツルタイプボルト(Spit)もボルトハーケン(expansion bolt)
も同じくboltなので、注意が必要
- Bomber
- Used to indicate that something is exceptionally solid, e.g.
an anchor, a hold. See also bombproof.
(e) Firme, (s) Kanon, (j) 頑丈な支点/ホールド
- Bombproof
- The illusion that an anchor is infallible
(d) Bomben sicher, (f) beton (i) A prova di bomba, (e)
A prueba de bomba, (s) Bombsaker, (j) 絶対大丈夫に思えるような支点
- Bong
- An almost extinct species of extra wide pitons. Now, large
chocks are usually used instead.
(f) Bong, (j) ボン(使用に注意。台形ナッツのように上から下に狭くなるところに
入れ、ハンマーでこんこん叩いてセット。本体部分に穴が空いているからそこにスリ
ングを通して下に衝撃がかかるようにする。)
- (f) "Bonne Grimpe !"
- A greeting to climbers when they start the climb.
("Good climbing!")
(e) "Buena suerte!", (j) 「頑張って登って!」
- Boulder, to
- Climbing unroped on boulders or at the foot of climbs to a
height where it is still safe to jump off.
(d) Bouldern (f) Faire du bloc, (nl) Boulderen, (i) Arrampicare
su masso, (e) Boulder / Cascarear, (j) ボルダリング
- Bounce
- To crater from an extreme height. Usually lethal.
(d) Todessturz, (j) 地面に落ちた体が跳ね返るくらいの衝撃を受けるような墜落
をする
- Bowline
- Sailing knot (not to be used for climbing, unless backed up
with a second knot)
(d) Bulinknoten / Palstek, (f) Noeud de chaise / Noeud de bouline,
(nl) Paalsteek, (i) (Nodo) bulino, (e) Bulin, (s) Palstek,
(j) ブーリン結び、もやい結び
- Brain bucket
- Aka helmet. That all important hard shelled thing that covers
our (second?) most valuable asset.
(j) ヘルメット
- Bucket
- A large hold (Aka "jug", esp. in UK)
(d) Henkel, (f) Bac / Baquet / A-plat / Poignee de metro /
Prise crochetante, (nl) bak, (i) Fibbia / Vasca, (e) Asa / gasa, (s) Brevlada,
(j) ガバ、バケツホールド
- Buildering
- To climb buildings
(d) Fassadenklettern, (f) Escalade urbaine, (f-c) Escalade de ville, (nl) Geveltoerisme,
(e) Escalada urbana, (s) Fasadklattring, (j) ビルダリング
- Butterfly knot
- Interesting but rarely used climbing knot.
(f) Noeud de milieu d'alpiniste, (f-c) Noeud papillon / les oreilles du Micky ??,
(e) Nudo de mariposa, (j) ちょう結び
- Buttress
- The part of the mountain or rock that stands in front of the
main mountainface.
(d) Vorbau / Pfeiler, (f) Pilier, (i) Pilastro, (e) Espolon,
(s) Pelare, (j) バットレス、独立支稜
- Cairn
- (f) Cairn, (j) ケルン
- Cam
- Generic reference to the family of spring loaded camming devices
(SLCD) such as friends, camalots, aliens, TCUs, etc. Also refered
to as springs
(f) Came, (e) Levas, (j) カム
- Campus
- A dyno executed using the arms only. Comes from the campus
board where the people who do this move get the muscle to do it.
(d) Frei hangend, (j) 飛び付き、ランジ
- Campus board
- A wooden training board with finger ledges that is used for
training dynos and finger power.
(d) Hangelbrett, (f) Planche d'entrainement, (e) Tabla de
entrenamiento, (j) キャンパス・ボード
- Cat, dead
- Contact Greg Opland for this one...
(d) Tote Katze, (f) Chat mort, (nl) Dode kat, (i) Gatto morte,
(lat) Felis oplandis, (s) Dod katt, (pl) Zdechly kot
- Chalk
- Magic powder that makes the hands stick to even the smoothest
rock.
(d) Chalk / Magnesia, (f) Magnesie, (nl) Magnesiumpoeder,
(i) Magnesia, (e) Magnesio, (s) Krita, (pl) Magnezja, (j) チョーク
(酸化マグネシウム)
- Cheese grater, to
- To slide down a slab while scraping the knees, hands, and
face.
(f) Glisser dans une dalle en s'ecorchant les genoux, les mains et la face...,
(j) (膝、手、顔を擦りながら)スラブを墜落する
- Chert
- (f) Chert, (j) チャート
- Chest harness
- Bra-like looking harness (to be used with waist harness)
(d) Brustklettergurt, (f) Harnais torse / Baudrier torse / Torse, (nl) Borstgordel, (i) Cinghia
pettorale, (e) Arnes de pecho, (s) Brostsele, (pl)
upzraz piersiowa, (j) チェスト・ハーネス
- Chickenhead
- Sometimes phallic shaped, protruding lumps that make excellent
hand or footholds on granite, etc.
(d) Zacke / Felskopfel, (f-c) Banane, (e) Chile / cuerno, (j) 岩角
- Chimney
- A wide crack that accomodates (most of) the body of the climber.
(d) Kamin, (f) Cheminee, (nl) Schoorsteen, (i) Camino, (e)
Chimenea, (s) Kamin, (pl) Komin, (j) チムニー
- Chimney, to
- A climbing technique used to conquer chimneys. Usually requires
the use of the back and feet, arms, head and other body parts.
(f) Escalade en cheminee, (j) チムニー登りをする
- Chipped hold
- A hold created with a hamer and chisel by a moron uncapable
of doing the climb as it is.
(d) Geschlagener Griff, (f) Prise taillee, (i) Presa scavata,
(s) Chippade grepp, (j) チップド・ホールド
- Chock
- Generic reference to the family of passive wired protection
devices, also called nuts, stoppers, wires, and rocks.
(e) Nueces, (j) チョック、ナッツ、ワイヤ、ロックス
- Chockstone
- A stone wedged between a crack, a chimney, etc.
(f) Bloc coince, (s) Kilsten, (j) チョックストン
- Chute
- A very steep gully. The word chute is french for fall
and refers to the rockfall that is very common in a chute.
(j) ガリー、クーロワール
- Class
- A number designating the overal technical level of a route.
The first number in the YDS designates the class of the climb.
Here's the different classes...
(e) Clase, (j) 級
- Clean
- Aid climbing without hammering.
(e) Limpiar, (j) クリーンクライミング
- Clean, to
- To remove the pro from a route. Usually done by the follower.
(d) Abbauen / Ausraumen, (f) Depitonner / Escalade propre /
Escalade ecologique, (pl) Czyste, (j) リードなどが設置したプロテクション
を片づける、リードなどが設置したプロテクションを片づけながら登攀する
- Cliff
- A vertical piece of rock good for climbing (see also Crag).
(d) Fels, (f) Falaise, (nl) Rots, (i) Falesia, (e) Risco, (s)
Klippa, (pl) Skala, (j) 岩壁
- Cliffhanger
- Not just a silly film with Wolfgang Gullich and Ron Kauk,
but also the name for a small hooking device used to aid climb
up small ledges and pockets.
(f) Crochet a gouttes d'eau, (j) クリフハンガー
(人工登攀のときフレーク状の岩に引っ掛けて使用する用具)
cf. スカイフック
- Climb, to
- (d) Klettern, (f) Grimper / Escalader / Gravir, (nl) Klimmen, (i) Arrampicare / scalare,
(e) Escalar, (s) Klattra, (pl) Wspinac sie, (j) 登る
- Climb, a
- (d) Kletterei, (f) Escalade / Grimpe, (nl) Klim, (i) Arrampicata,
(e) Escalada, (s) Led / Tur, (j) 登攀
- "Climbing"
- What the climber shouts after the belayer screams "Belay
on".
(d) "Komme", (f) "Parti", (nl) "Ik kom",
(i) "parto"/"vengo", (e) "Voy",
(s) "Jag klattrar", (pl) "Ide"
(j) 「登ります」
- Climbing gym
- The second best thing to real rock (Aka "wall" in
the UK).
(d) Kletterhalle, (f) Mur d'escalade / Salle d'escalade, (nl)
Klimzaal / Klimhal, (i) Palestra, (e) Muro artificial de escalada,
(s) Inomhusvagg, (j) 人工壁、室内壁、ロックジム
- Climbing shoes
- Shoes made of sticky rubber that would have fit you comfortable
when you were ten.
(d) Kletterschuhe, (f) Chaussons d'escalade, (nl) Klimschoenen,
(i) Scarpe da roccia / scarpette / pedule, (e) Botas de escala
/ tenis de escalada, (e-argentina) pedulas / zapatillas de escalada,
(s) Klatterskor, (pl) Pantofle / buty wspinaczkowe,
(j) クライミング・シューズ
- "Climb when ready"
- The British equivalent of "Belay on".
(e) "Cuando estes listo", (e-argentina) "veni"
(j) 「登っていいよ」
- Clip, to
- The reassuring action of putting the rope through a karabiner
(that is attached to a piece of pro).
(d) Einhangen, (f) Mousquetonner, (pl) wpiac sie, (j) クリップする
- Clove hitch
- A useful, easily adjustable climbing knot usually used to
tie the rope into a karibiner.
(d) Mastwurf, (f) Noeud de cabestan / Noeud en demi-clef a capeler, (i) Nodo barcaiolo, (e) Cola
de cochino, (s) Dubbelt halvslag, (j) インクノット
- Col
- A steep, high mountain pass.
(d) Joch, (f) Col, (j) コル、肩、たわ、たるみ、鞍部
- Cord
- Thin static rope (5, 5.5 or 6 mm)
(d) Reepschnur, (f) Cordelette / Ficelle, (nl) Prusiktouw, (i) Cordino,
(e) Cordino / cordeleta, (s) Repsnore, (j) 細引、補助ロープ
- Corner
- Inside corner (see dihedral) or outside corner.
(f) Diedre, (i) Diedro, (e) Esquina, (s) Horn, (j) コーナー、ジェードル、凹角
(両側の岩壁が凸角状または凹角状になっている地形)
- Corn snow
- Unconsolidated granular snow that has gone through a short
freeze-and-thaw process. This type of snow is prevalent throughout
the High Sierra in April and May.
(j) 粒雪
- Couloir
- A steep gully which may have snow or ice.
(d) Runse, (f) Couloir, (j) クーロワール、ルンゼ、氷雪回廊(氷や雪の詰まった
急峻な谷溝)
- Counter balance
- (f) Jambe en drapeau, (j) カウンターバランス
- Crack, in rock
- A gap or fissure in the rock varying in width from nail to
bodywidth.
(d) Riss, (f) Fissure / Fente, (nl) (Rots)-spleet, (i) Fessura, (e)
Grieta, (s) Spricka, (pl) Rysa, (j) クラック、リス
- Crag
- Name for a (small) climbing area.
(d) Klettergarten, (f) Falaise, (i) Falesia, (s) Klippa, (pl)
Skala, (j) クラッグ(フリークライミングの対象となる岩場、ゲレンデ)、岩壁
- Crampons
- Very pointy footware use to walk glaciers or climb ice.
(d) Steigeisen, (f) Crampons, (nl) Stijgijzers, (i) Ramponi, (e)
Crampones, (s) Stegjarn, (j) アイゼン、クランポン
- Crank, to
- To pull on a hold as hard as you can, and then some.
(d) Durchziehen, (j) ホールドを引っ張る
- Crater, to
- To fall and hit the ground, as in "I almost cratered".
(f) Se gaufrer / se vautrer / se planter / devisser, (s) Kratra,
(pl) glebowac, (j) 地面に穴を作るくらいの大墜落をする
- Crest
- The very top of a ridge or arete.
(j) リッジやアレートの最上
- Crevasse
- A crack in the surface of a glacier.
(d) (Gletscher-)spalte / Schrund, (f) Crevasse, (nl) (Gletscher-)spleet,
(i) Crepaccio, (e) Grieta, (s) Glaciarspricka, (pl) szczelina,
(j) クレバス、シュルント
- Crimper
- A very small hold that accepts only the finger tips.
(d) Kratzer / Pinchi, (f) Arque / Prises en arque, (i) Tacca,
(e) Grieta de dedos, (j) 指先がほんのわずかしかかからない小さなハンドホールド、
アーケ、クリンプホールド
- Crimping
- (f) Arque, (j) クリンピング、アーケ
- Crux
- The hard bit.
(d) Crux / Schluesselstelle, (f) Le pas / Crux, (nl) Sleutelpassage,
(i) Passo chiave, (e) Paso clave, (s) Krux, (j) 核心部
- Daisy chain
- A sling sewn (or tied) with numerous loops, used as an adjustable
sling in aid climbing.
(j) デイジー・チェーン
- Deadman
- (f) Ancre / Corps mort / Ancre a neige, (j) デッドマン
- Deadpoint
- A dynamic move where the next hold is grabbed at the dead
point of the move.
(d) Greifen im toten Punkt, (j) デッドポイント
- Deck
- The usually unfriendly surface that wellcomes you at the end
of a grounder.
(j) 甲板
- Descender
- Device used for rappeling.
(d) Abseiler, (f) Descendeur, (i) Discensore, (e) Descensor, (s)
Firningsbroms, (j) 下降器
- Dihedral
- Inside corner (Aka "open book").
(d) Verschneidung, (f) Diedre, (nl) Versnijding / hoek, (i)
Diedro, (e) Diedro, (s) (Inner-) horn / Dieder,
(j) ジェードル、コーナー、凹角
- Direct route
- (f) Directissime, (i) Direttissima, (j) ダイレクトルート、ディレッティシマ
- "Dirt me"
- US slang which means as much as 'Lower me'.
(d) "Ablassen" / "Nach", (j) 「降ろして」
- Dog (to dog a move)
- Climbing, lowering, climbing again till a certain move is
made (the usual mode of ascent...).
(d) Ausbouldern, (nl) Jo-jo, (j) ハングドッグ
- Double fisherman's knot
- Solid knot used to tie two ropes or pieces of webbing together
(Aka grapevine knot).
(d) Doppelter Spierenstich, (f) Double noeud de pecheur,
(nl) Dubbele visserssteek, (i) Nodo a contrasto doppio / nodo doppio
inglese, (e) Nudo de pescador doble, (s) Dubbel fiskarknop,
(j) ダブルフィッシャーマン結び
- Double rope
- Same as a half rope. Also the technique using two half ropes.
(d) Doppelseil, (f) Corde a double, (i) Corda doppia, (e)
Cuerda doble, (s) Dubbelrep, (j) ダブルロープ
- Downclimbing
- Descending the difficult way.
(d) Abklettern, (f) Desescalader, (nl) Afklimmen, (i) disarrampicare
/ Arrampicare in discesa, (e) Destrepar / Desescalar, (s) Nedetklattring,
(j) クライムダウン
- Dude
- Generic name for a climber (in the US).
(j) クライマーの属名
- Dynamic belay
- A belay method in which some rope is allowed to slip during
severe falls. A dynamic belay can severely reduce the impact force
from a serious fall, but can also severely kill you if not done
properly.
(d) Dynamische Sicherung, (f) Assurage dynamique, (i) Sicura dinamica
/ assicurazione dinamica, (e) Seguro dinamico, (s) Dynamisk
sakring, (j) 制動確保、動的確保(登攀者が墜落した時、最大衝撃を抑える為に
確保者がロープを制動させながら確保する方法)
- Dyno / Lunge
- Dynamic movement towards a distant hold.
(d) Dynamo, (f) Jete, (nl) Dynamo, (i) Lancio, (e) Movimiento
dinamico, (s) Dynamiskt move, (j) 飛び付き、ランジ
- EB
- The first sport climbing shoes
(j) EBシューズ
- Edge
- A sharp edge on a rock face.
(d) Kante, (f) Gratton, (i) Spigolo / lama, (e) Orilla, (s) Kant,
(pl) Kant, (j) 足エッジホールド
- Edging
- Foot technique where one uses the edge of the climbing shoe
to stand on small footholds. The opposite of smearing.
(d) Kanten, (f) Grattonner, (e) cantear, (j) エッジング
(足エッジにのること)
- Elvis, to
- To have a sewing maching leg. Named after "Elvis, the
King", who suffered from this this problem when singing before
a crowd of screaming women.
(d) Nahmaschine, (e) motoneta, (pl) telegrafowac,
(j) ミシンを踏む
- Epic
- The story of a well planned climb that turned into a grueling
adventure that turned out well in the end. As these stories are
told over and over again - and they always are - the details get
stretched to supernatural proportions for dramatic effect.
(d) Eine Geschichte, (f) Epopee, (e) Historia epica,
(j) 予期せぬ苦難連続のクライミングまたは登攀(出来事)を含む記録文
- Etrier
- (Pronounce with a french accent). Webbing ladder used for
aid climbing. Also known as 'aider'.
(d) Leiter, (f) Etrier, (nl) Ladder, (i) Staffa, (e) Estribo,
(s) Stegar, (j) あぶみ
- Face climbing
- Not crack climbing.
(d) Wandklettern / Plattenklettern, (nl) Wandklimmen, (f) Grimper
en dalle, (i) Arrampicata su parete / Arrampicata in placca, (e)
Escalada exterior, (s) Vaggklattring, (pl) wspinaczka
po plycie, (j) フェイス・クライミング
- Fall, to
- A dynamic retreat from a climb (free-solo rappel). Note that
it is never the fall that kills, it's the landing.
(d) Stuerzen, (f) Prendre un plomb / Voler / Tomber, (nl) Vallen,
(i) Cadere / Volare, (e) Caer / volar, (s) Ramla, Falla, (pl)
odpasc, (j) 墜落する
- "Falling"
- Yelled when a climber is (about to) fall.
(d) "Ich sturze", (f) "Sec" (eqv. to 'up rope')
/ "Assure sec", (nl) "Ik val", (i) "Volo", (e)
"Caigo", (j) 「張って」、「落ちる」
- Fall factor
- The length of the fall divided by the amount of rope paid
out.
(d) Sturzfaktor, (f) Facteur de chute (Fch), (i) Fattore di caduta,
(e) Factor de caida, (s) Fallfaktor, (j) 墜落係数
(登攀者が落ちた距離を繰り出した登攀用ロープ(アクティブロープ)の長さ
で割ったもの。数値は0から最大2の間)
- FecoFile
- A PVC tube used to store solid human waste on big walls. Aka
the Shit Tube.
(f) Pot en chlorure de vinyle pour les feces dans le Big Wall,
(j) 大便用のポリ塩化ビニル壷(ビッグウォール用)
- Fifi hook
- An open hook used to allow easy clipping during aid climbing.
Usually found on aiders, daisy chains, etc.
(d) Fifihaken, (f) Crochet fiffi / Fiffi, (i) Gancio fiffi, (e)
Fifi, (s) Fiffikrok, (j) フィフィ
- Figure 8
- Metal rappelling / belaying device shaped like an 8.
(d) Achter / Abseilachter, (f) Descendeur en huit (Huit), (nl) Acht,
(i) L'otto (il discensore), (e) Ocho, (s) Atta, (pl) Osemka,
(j) エイト環
- Figure of eight
- Very popular and solid tie-in knot.
(d) Achtknoten, (f) Noeud de huit (Huit), (nl) Acht / achtknoop,
(i) Nodo a otto / Savoia inseguito, (e) Nudo de ocho, (s) Attaknut,
(pl) Osemka, (j) 8の字結び
- Fingerlock
- Masochistic technique to twist and wedge the fingers into
a crack.
(d) Fingerklemmtechnik in Rissen, (f) Verrou (de doigt) /
Blocage sur coincement de doigts, (nl)
Vingerverklemming, (i) Incastro di dita, (e) Encunadura
de dedos, (s) Fingerjam, (j) フィンガーロック、フィンガージャム
- Firn / Spring snow
- Old, well consolidated snow. Often a left-over from the previous
season. Closer to ice than snow in density, it may require the
use of crampons.
(d) Firn, (f) Neige de printemps, (j) 春雪、春のしまり雪
- Fisherman
- Simple knot to tie two ropes together. The double fisherman
knot, however, is more popular.
(d) Spierenstich, (f) Noeud de pecheur, (nl) Visserssteek,
(i) Nodo a contrasto semplice, (e) Pescador, (s) Fiskarknop,
(j) フィッシャーマン結び、テグス結び
- Flash
- To lead a climb with no falls or dogging and with no previous
attempts on the climb. Two variations exist: the onsight flash
(where the climber has never seen the climb before) and the beta
flash (where the climber has studied the climb before or has seen
someone do the climb). See there.
(f) Enchaaner en tete, (j) フラッシング
- Flake
- A thin bit of rock that is detached from the main face.
(d) Schuppe, (f) Ecaille, (i) Scaglia, (e) Laja, (s) flak,
(pl) Pletwa, (j) フレーク、ウロコ状岩剥離
- Flank
- (d) Flanke, (f) Contrepente, (j) フランケ(岩稜側壁の高難度の岩壁)
- Flared
- A crack or chimney with sides that are not parallel, but instead
form two converging planes of rock.
(j) フレアー cf. フレアー・クラック、フレアー・チムニー
- Following
- Not leading a climb.
(d) Nachsteigen, (f) Grimper en second / Grimper en moulinette,
(nl) Naklimmen, (i) Seguire (andare da secondo), (e) Segundear
/ escalar de segundo, (s) Folja, (j) フォロー、セカンド
- Foot hold
- (f) Appui (de pied), (j) フットホールド
- Free climbing
- Moving up a rock using only hands, feet, and natural holds.
Ropes and pro are only used for protection of the climber and
not for progression.
(d) Frei klettern, (f) Escalade libre, (nl) Vrijklimmen,
(i) Scalata / arrampicata libera, (e) Escalada libre,
(s) Friklattring, (j) フリークライミング
(注:英語の"free climbing"は日本で呼ばれているフリークライミング
とは少し違う。"free climbing"は人工登攀と対象する)
- Free solo
- Free climbing while using no ropes for protection. You fall
- you die.
(d) Free solo klettern, (f) Solo integral, (nl) Solo, (i) Arrampicata in
solitaria, (e) Escalada solitaria / Superlibre, (s) Frisolo,
(j) フリークライミングの無ザイル単独登攀
- Friend
- Trade name for the original camming devices, now also available
as Camalots, TCU's, Quads, Aliens, Big Dudes, etc.
(j) フレンズ
- Gate
- The part of the karibiner that opens.
(d) Schnapper, (f) Doigt, (nl) Snapper, (i) Leva, (e) Pestillo,
(e-argentina) leva, (s) Grind, (j) カラビナのゲート
- Glacier
- A slowly moving permanent mass of ice.
(d) Gletscher, (f) Glacier, (nl) Gletscher, (i) Ghiacciaio, (e)
Glaciar, (s) Glaciar, (j) 氷河
- Gorge
- (f) Gorge, (j) ゴルジュ、ゴージ、峡谷
- "Got me?"
- A wake up call for the belayer, used to warn her that you
are about to some weight on the rope.
(j) 「気をつけて私を見ておいて(落ちるかもしれないので)」
- Grade
- A number denoting the seriousness of a route (not to be confused
with the rating of climb, which describes the technical difficulty).
In Britain, however, the word grade means both grade and rating.
Look here for the different grades...
(d) Ernsthaftigkeitsgrat, (f) Grade, (e) Grado, (j) グレード
- Grease, to
- Not being able to hold on to a particularly slick hold, due
to the presence of sweat, lactic acid or sand. Not uncommon in
overused crags
(f) Glisser, (j) ぬめる
- Grounder
- A fall where the kinetic energy is not absorbed by the rope
and pro, but rather by mother earth itself. Can hurt badly.
(d) Bodensturz, (j) グランドフォール
- Grigri
- Nifty but somewhat controversial belaying device made by Petzl.
(j) グリグリ
- Gripped
- Paralyzed with fear and utterly confused.
(j) 腰を抜かした
- Gully
- A wide, shallow ravine on a mountainside.
(j) ガリー
- HACE
- High Altitude Cerebral Edema. Liquid in the brain as a result
of high altitude exposure. Few people live to tell what it is
like.
(f) Oedeme d'altitude, (j) 高所脳浮腫
- Half rope
- A rope of 9 or 8.5 mm that has to be used together with a
second rope when leading a climb.
(d) Halbseil, (f) Corde de rappel, (nl) Half touw, (i) Mezza corda,
(e) Media cuerda, (s) Halvrep, (j) ダブルロープ(注:1本だけのこと)
- Handjam
- Slightly masochistic technique where the hand is wedged into
a crack.
(d) Handklemmer, (f) Verrou (de main) / Coincement de main, (nl) Handklem, (i) Incastro
di mani, (e) Encunadura de mano / -de palmas, (e-argentina)
Empotrar la mano, (j) ハンドジャム
- Handle
- Big banana-shaped hold often found in indoor gyms. Great for
waving hello to admiring bystanders. It may sound bizarre, but
I've never seen one of those outdoors...
(d) Henkel, (f) Poignee de metro, (nl) Handvat, (j) 取っ手形ホールド
- Hangdog, to
- See Dog.
(j) ハングドッグ
- HAPE
- High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. Liquid in the lungs as a result
of high altitude exposure. Pretty serious condition that can quickly
lead to HACE if a descent to lower altitudes is not made immediately.
See also HACE.
(f) Oedeme d'altitude, (j) 高所肺水腫
- Harness
- Piece of clothing that identifies you as a climber. The coolness
factor can be significantly enhanced by hanging things from the
harness that go cling.
(d) Klettergurt, (f) Baudrier / Baudard / Baudrier d'encordement / Harnais,
(f-c) Baudrier / Cuissard,
(nl) Klimgordel, (i) Imbragatura, (e) Arnes, (s) Klattersele,
(pl) Uprzaz, (j) ハーネス
- Haute route
- Ski Tour Route in Alps.
(f) Haute route, (j) オートルート、山スキー縦走路
- Haul bag
- Large and robust bag used to haul food, water, climbing gear,
sleeping bag, television, satelite dish, and other essential equipment
that is required, up a big wall. Also know as "the pig".
(d) Materialsack / Nachziehsack, (f) Sac, (i) Sacco da recupero,
(e) Petate / Costal de escalada, (s) Hissack, (j) ホールバッグ
- Headwall
- Where the face of a mountain steepens dramatically.
(j) 絶壁
- "Help"
- The vocal alternative to 6 signals a minute. In far away countries,
try S.O.S. -- it doesn't mean anything but is understood by most.
(d) "Hilfe", (f) "Au secours", (nl) "Help",
(i) "Aiuto", (e) socorro / ayuda, (s) "Hjalp",
(j) 「助けて」
- Helmet
- Solid plastic device that can sometimes protect the head from
falling stones or impact (Aka a brainbucket).
(d) Helm, (f) Casque, (nl) Helm, (i) Casco, (e) Casco, (s) Hjalm,
(j) ヘルメット
- Hex
- Short for Hexentrix. A type of nut with an excentric hexadiagonal
shape. Works for wedging (as a nut) but also for camming.
(f) Excentrique / Coinceur exentrique, (j) ヘキセントリック
- Hueco
- A beautifully shaped pocket with a positive lip named after
these increabible features found at the Hueco Tanks bouldering
area in Texas.
(j) ウエーコ(すき間、空洞)
- HMS
- Karibiner with one wide side used for belaying with a munter
hitch (aka pearabiner). From the German term for munter hitch
belay: 'Halbmastwurfsicherung'.
(d) HMS, (f) Mousqueton type de HMS, (i) Moschettone a pera, (s) HMS-knut,
(j) HMS型カラビナ
- Hold
- Anything that can be held on to.
(d) Griff, (f) Prise, (nl) Greep, (i) Appiglio / Presa, (e) Presa
/ agarre, (e-argentina) Toma, (s) Grepp, (pl) Chwyt, (j) ホールド
- Horn
- Spike of rock that can be for a great hold or not so great
protection. The same as a chickenhead.
(j) 岩角
- Hurtin unit
- That member of the climbing team that is suffering from severe
exposure to alcoholic beverages the night before.
(j) 二日酔い集団(注:米国では耳にしない言葉)
- Ice axe
- Device used for ice climbing, glacier crossing, or scaring
away burglars.
(d) Eispickel / Eisbeil, (f) Piolet, (nl) IJsbijl, (i) Piccozza,
(e) Piolet, (s) Isyxa, (j) ピッケル、アイスアックス
- Ice screw
- A protection device for ice climbing. Looks like a large bolt
that can be screwed in hard ice.
(d) Eisschraube, (f) Broche a glace / Piton a glace / Broche,
(i) Vite da ghiaccio,
(e) Tornillo para hielo, (s) Isskruv, (j) アイススクリュー
- Icicle
- (f) Aiguille de glace / Chandelle de glace, (j) つらら、氷柱
- Italian hitch
- Munter hitch knot or HMS knot
(f) Noeud a friction de Munter / Noeud de demi-cabestan, (j) 半マスト結び
- Jam, to
- Wedging body parts in a crack.
(d) Klemmen, (f) Faire un verrou / Faire un coincement / Coincer / Verrouiller,
(i) Incastrarsi, (e) Encunar, (e-argentina) Empotrar, (s)
Jamma, (pl) Klinowac, (j) ジャミング
- Jug
- Very large hold (short for jug handle) (Aka "bucket"
in the US).
(d) Henkel / Kelle, (f) Poignee de metro / A-plat /
Benitier, (nl) bak, (i) Vasca /
Fibbia, (e-argentina) Manija, (s) Brevlada, (pl) Klama,
(j) ジャグホールド(深いガバ)
- Jugs
- Big wall lingo for Jumars or any other type of ascenders.
(j) ユマール
- Jug, to
- To jumar up a line (big wall lingo).
(j) ユマーリング
- Jumar
- A type of rope ascending device.
(f) Jumar / Poignee de remontee, (j) ユマール
- Jumar, to
- To ascend a rope using ascenders.
(d) Jumaren, (f) Monter au jumar, (e) Jumarear, (s) Jumarera,
(j) ユマーリング
- Junction
- (f) Jonction, (j) ジャンクション、山稜合流点
- Karabiner
- Metal connecting device (Aka "biner").
(d) Karabiner, (f) Mousqueton, (nl) Karabiner / mousqueton, (i)
Moschettone, (e) Mosqueton / Mosquete, (s) Karbin / Karbinhake,
(pl) Karabinek, (j) カラビナ
- Kernmantle / Core wrapped rope
- Modern climbing rope consisting of bundles of continuous nylon
filaments (Kern) surrounded by a braided protective sheath (Mantle).
(d) Kernmantelseil, (f) Corde lisse, (j) 編みロープ
- Knotted cord
- Piece of cord with a knot tied into the end that is used for
protection (pretty much like a nut). The traditional method of
protecting climbs, and still used in the Elbsandsteingebirge in
Eastern Germany.
(d) Knotenschlinge, (f) Corde nouee, (i) Cordino annodato, (j) シュリンゲ
- Layback / Lieback
- Somewhat clumsy looking climbing technique where hands and
feet work in opposition.
(d) Piazen / Hangeln / Dulfer, (f) Dulfer / Layback, (i) Dulfer
(Opposizione), (e) Dulfer, (s) Layback, (j) レイバック
- Leader
- Person who leads a climb.
(d) Vorsteiger, (f) Premier (de cordee) / Grimpeur de tete,
(nl) Voorklimmer,
(i) Primo, (e) Primero / puntero, (s) Forsteman, (pl) Prowadzacy,
(j) トップ
- Lead, to
- To ascend a climb from the bottom up, placing protection (or
clipping protection) as you go.
(d) Vorsteigen, (f) Grimper en tete, (nl) Voorklimmen, (i)
Andare da capocardata, andare da primo, (e) Puntear / guiar, (s)
Leda, (pl) Prowadzic, (j) リードする
- Ledge
- Flat bit on a rock (can be miniature or gigantic).
(d) Leiste (small) / Absatz (large), (f) Reglette / vire
("vire" is somewhere between a microledge and a party
ledge) / Vire rocheuse / Saillie, (nl) Rand(je), (i) Cengia,
(e) Repisa, (s) Hylla, (pl) Polka, (j) レッジ(岩壁で両足で立てる程度の岩場)
- Limestone
- Type of rock found in abundance in southern France (usually
white and full of pockets and holds).
(d) Kalkstein, (f) Calcaire / Craie, (nl) Kalksteen, (i) Calcare, (e)
Roca calcarea, (s) Kalksten, (pl) Wapein, (j) 石灰岩
- Locking biner
- Karabiner that can be locked.
(d) Verschlusskarabiner / Schrauber, (f) Mousqueton a vis /
Mousqueton a virole / Mousqueton a molette,
(nl) Schroefkarabiner, (i) Moschettone a ghiera, (e) Mosqueton
de seguro, (s) Laskarbin / Skruvkarbin, (j) 安全環付カラビナ
- Lock-off
- To hold on to the rock with one bent arm while using the other
arm to reach up for the next hold or to place or clip protection.
Lockoffs on small holds will get you pumped in a hurry.
(d) Blockieren / Fixieren, (f) Bloquer, (nl) Blokkeren, (i) Bloccaggio,
(e) Bloquear, (s) Lesa / Binda av,
(j) 腕を曲げたハンドホールド支持(とてもパンプしやすい腕の姿勢)
- Lowering
- To descend something or somebody.
(d) Ablassen, (f) Descendre en moullinette, (nl) Zakken / naar beneden
laten, (i) Calare, (e) Bajar / descender a alguien, (s) Fira ner,
(j) ロワーダウン
- Main ridge
- (f) Arete principale, (j) メインリッジ、主稜
- Manky
- Term used to describe a fixed bolt that looks like it was
placed before the last ice age. Use these bolts at your own discretion
(d) Rosthaken, (f) Clou pourri / clou rouille, (j) 古いボルト
- Mantle
- Difficult balancing move useful to get up on ledges.
(d) (Durch)-stutzbewegung, (f) Retablissement / Reta,
(i) Ristabilimento, (s) Mantla, (j) マントリング
- Minor ridge
- (d) Seitengrat, (f) Arete laterale,
(j) マイナーリッジ、ザイテングラート、側稜
- Mixed climbing
- Climbing with a combination of different methods of ascent.
e.g mixed free and aid climbing, mixed rock and ice climbing,
etc.
(f) Escalade mixte / Progression en terrain mixte, (j) ミックス登攀
- Moat
- The gap between snow and ice on a rock wall. Has posed problems
ever since the middle ages.
(f) Roture / Crevasse terminale, (j) 壁際クレバス(岩壁と氷雪渓の間の裂け目。
ベルクシュルントは氷河上部と上部雪田とのギャップ)
- Mountain rescue
- The people who put their life on the line when you screw up
badly.
(d) Bergrettung, (f) Secours en montagne / Sauvetage en montagne,
(i) Soccorso alpino,
(e) Rescate de montana, (s) Bergraddning, (j) 山岳救助隊
- Munge
- The dirt and vegetation that can sometimes be found in cracks.
(f) Herbes, (j) 草付
- Multi pitch climb
- Climb that consists of more than a single pitch.
(d) Mehrseillaengentour,(f) Voie de plusieurs longeurs, (nl) Klim
van meerdere touwlengtes, (i) Via da piu' tiri, (e) Ruta de varios
largos, (s) Tur med flera replangder(?), (pl) Droga kilku
wyciagowa, (j) マルチピッチクライミング
- Munter hitch
- Knot used for belaying (Aka italian hitch or friction hitch).
The Germans love this knot (see HMS).
(d) Halbmastwurf, (f) Demi-cabestan / Noeud a friction de Munter,
(nl) Halve mastworp, (i)
Mezzo barcaiolo, (e-argentina) Nudo dinamico, (s) Munterknut,
(j) 半マスト結び
- Nailing
- An ancient term used to describe direct-aid climbing with
pitons.
(j) ネイリング
- Natural anchor
- (f) Amarrage Naturel / Ancrage naturel, (j) ナチュラルアンカー
- Needle
- Rock with a characteristic pointed shape. Also known as pinnacle,
aiguille, gendarme, etc.
(d) Nadel / Spitze, (f) Aiguille / Gendarme / Point / Pic, (i) Guglia / Pinnacolo,
(e) Aguja, (s) Pinnakel, (j) ニードル、針峰、ピナクル、エギーユ、ジャンダルム、
頭、ピーク
- Neve
- Consolidated granular snow formed by repeated freeze-and-thaw
cycles. Also used to indicate permanent snowfields.
(f) Neve, (j) 上部雪田(氷河源頭より上部の積雪部)
- Notch
- A small col.
(f) Collet, (j) 小さなコル
- Nut
- Metal wedge used for protection in cracks.
(d) Klemmkeil, (f) Coinceur, (nl) Nut, (i) Dado, (e) Nuez, (s)
Kil, (pl) Kosc, (j) ナッツ
- Nut tool
- Piece of metal that can be used to remove stuck nuts or cams
(d) Keilenentferner, (f) Decoinceur / Sardine / Extracteur /
Decrocheur / Decroche-friend, (i) Cavadadi,
(e) Sacanueces, (s) Kilpetare, (j) ナッツキー(クサビ外し)
- "Off Belay"
- Yelled when the climber no longer requires a belay (e.g. because
she / he has reached a stance). Once the belayer hears "off
belay", he / she removes the rope from the belay device and
yells "belay off". In UK, Australia and New Zealand:
"Safe".
(d) "Stand" ("Aussicher"), (f) "Relais"
or "Vache", (nl) "Stand", (i)
"Posto" / "Molla", (e) "Libre",
(e-argentina) "autoasegurado", (s) "Lagg av"
/ "Ta hem", (j) 「ビレイ解除」
- Off width
- A climb too wide to jam, too small to chimney. And then I've
heard of people who actually like this kind of climbing.
(d) Schulterriss, (e) Off width, (j) オフウィドゥス
- "On Belay ???"
- Query to verify if the belayer is ready to secure the climber
(US only).
(d) "Kann ich kommen?", (f) "Tu me prends ???",
(i) "Sei pronto ???", (e) "?Subo?" / "?estas
listo?", (s) "Sakring klar ???", (j) 「登っていいかい?」
- On-sight flash
- Leading a climb with no falls and no dogging and without any
prior attempts, watching someone do it or beta on how to do the
moves.
(f) Enchainer en tete a vue / A vue, (i) A vista, (e)
A vista, (j) オンサイト
- Open book
- Same as a dihedral or inside corner. Two panes of rock join
in an acute or obtuse corner that faces left or right.
(j) ジェードル、コーナー、凹角
- Outside corner
- Also known as pillar or arete.
(d) Kante, (f) Pilier, (nl) Pijler, (i) Pilastro,
(j) アウトサイド・コーナー、ピラー、アレート、カンテ、リッジ
- Overhand knot
- A simple (but solid) knot in a double rope.
(d) Sackstich, (f) Noeud d'arret, (i) Nodo delle guide, (e) Nudo simple, (s) overhandsknut,
(j) 止め結び
- Overhand loop
- The simplest type of knot possible.
(d) Kreuzschlag, (f) Queue de vache / Noeud de boucle / Boucle nouee,
(e) Gasa, (j) ひと輪結び(アンカー用のテイルノット)
- Overhang
- Rock (or ice) that is "more than vertical".
(d) Ueberhang, (f) Surplomb(=strong overhang) or devers
(=slight overhang) / Deversant, (nl) overhang, (i) Strapiombo, (e) Desplome
/ Extraplomo, (s) Overhang, (pl) Przewieszenie, (j) オーバーハング
- Palming
- (f) Adherence de mains, (j) パーミング
- Pass
- The lowest passage between two mountains. The french - but
not just the french - know this as a col. The mathematicians would
call this the saddle point.
(d) Pass, (f) Col, (i) Sella / Colle / Passo / Valico, (e) Collado
/ puerto, (s) Pass, (j) 峠
- Party ledge
- A somewhat larger ledge used to rest (and party !) during
a particularly hard or long climb. Sometimes used to refer to
the belay station on a multipitch climb.
(f) Terrasse ("vire" is a somewhat narrower ledge) /
Vire / Saillie, (i) Terrazza, (nl) Plateau, (e) Repisa, (j) テラス
- Pendulum
- A swing on the rope, either intentional to gain a distant
anchor on big wall climbs or unintentional when falling during
a traverse with not enough pro in place.
(d) Pendeln / Pendelquergang, (f) Pendule / Traversee a
la corde, (i) (Traversata a)
pendolo, (e) Pendulo, (s) Pendeltravers / Pendla, (j) 振り子トラバース
- Pig
- The haul bag.
(d) Sau, (j) ホールバッグ
- Pillar
- Outside corner
(d) Pfeiler, (f) Pilier, (nl) Pijler, (i) Pilastro, (e) Pilar,
(s) Pelare, (j) ピラー、アウトサイド・コーナー
- Pink point
- To red-point a climb where the pro and runners have been pre-placed.
(d) Rotpunkt mit eingehangte Schlingen (Rotkreuz ???), (f) Point rose,
(j) ピンク・ポイント
- Pitch
- A section of climb between two belays and no longer than the
length of one rope (this used to mean 45m, nowadays pitches can
also be 50 or even 60m long -- check your topo).
(d) Seillaenge, (f) Longueur, (nl) Touwlengte, (i) Tiro, (e) Largo
(de cuerda), (s) Replangd, (pl) Wyciag, (j) ピッチ
- Piton
- Metal spike hammered into a crack (has come in disuse for
all but some special applications) (Aka "peg" in the
UK).
(d) Haken, (f) Piton / Clou, (nl) (Mep)haak, (i) Chiodo, (e) Piton
/ clavo, (j) ピトン、ハーケン
- Pocket
- A hold formed by a (small) depression in the rock.
(d) Loch / Fingerloch, (nl) Gat / vingergat, (i) Buca da dito, (s)
Ficka, (pl) Dziurka, (j) ポケット
- Portaledge
- A hanging tent with built in bed used on big walls (and big
trees).
(f) Plateforme de bivouac, (j) ポータレッジ
- Pro, Protection
- Anchors placed during the climb to protect the leader. Beware:
even properly placed pro does not prevent pregnancy or the transmission
of STDs.
(d) Sicherungsmittel, (f) Protection / Point / Point d'attache, (nl) Zekering, (i) Protezione,
(e) Proteccion / anclaje, (s) Sakring, (j) プロテクション、支点
- Prusik
- The sliding knot or the method to ascend a rope (named after
its inventer Dr. Karl Prusik).
(d) Prusik, (f) Noeud Prussik, (nl) Prusik, (i) Prusik, (e) Prusik, (s) Prusik,
(j) プルージック
- Pumped
- The feeling of overworked muscles. Most climbers are familiar
with the forearm pump: too much finger work causes the forearms
to swell and the strength to disappear. With a serious forearm
pump, even holding a glass of beer can become a serious challenge.
(d) Dicke arme (or any other body part), (f) Avoir les bouteilles / Daube,
(nl) Verzuurd, (i) Acciaiato, (s) Pumpad, (j) パンプ
- Quickdraw, quick
- Short sling with karabiners on either side.
(d) Expressschlinge, (f) Degaine / Couple / Paire, (nl) setje, (i)
Rinvio / Preparato / sveltina, (e) cintas express, (s) Expresslinga
/ Kortslinga, (pl) Expres, (j) ヌンチャク
- Rack
- The climbing gear carried during an ascent.
(d) Materialsortiment, (f) Materiel / matos, (i) Equipaggiomento
/ Assortimento di materiale, (e) Bandolera / bandola, (s) Racka
/ Utrustning, (pl) Spej, (j) ギアラック
- Rad
- Not trad. Slang for sport climbing.
(j) スポーツクライミング(注:日本ではフリークライミングと呼ばれている)
- Rally, to
- To climb exceptionally well, especially on normally difficult
climbs.
(j) 難しいピッチに精力を集中する
- Ramp
- An ascending ledge
(f) Rampe, (j) 傾斜路、ランペ
- Rappel, to
- Also: to rap. Descending by sliding down a rope. Known in
Britain (and Germany) as abseiling.
(d) Abseilen, (f) Descendre en rappel, (nl) Afdalen / abseilen (i)
Calare (in corda doppia), (e) Rapelear, (s) Fira, (j) 懸垂下降する、ラペルする
- Rating
- A number denoting the technical difficulty of the climb.
See here for more on ratings and grades.
(d) Schwierigkeitsgrat, (f) Cotation, (e) Escala de dificultad,
(j) グレード
- Redpoint
- To lead a climb without falling or dogging after a number
of attempts. This is different from onsight, where the climb is
lead without falling or dogging on its first attempt.
(d) Rotpunkt, (f) Cercle rouge / Point rouge, (i) Punto rosso,
(pl) RP, (j) レッドポイント
- Resin
- An alternative to chalk. Resin (or "pine tree resin"
to use its full name) is made from the yucky stuff that sticks
to your hands when you touch a pine tree. Because resin is mostly
colorless, it is preferred to chalk in some areas. But caution:
Don't let the color fool you. Resin can do permanent damage to
the rock and in fact is not allowed anywhere in the US for that
reason. reason in the US.
(d) Pof, (f) Pof, (i) Resina, (e) Resina, (s) Harts, (j) 松やに
- Rib
- A slender buttress. Something between a buttress and an outside
corner.
(f) Arete, (j) リブ
- Ridge
- The high divide extending out from a peak.
(j) リッジ、カンテ、アレート、尾根
- Ring
- A large (2 inch diameter) ring that is cemented in the rock
as a bolt. Rings are very common in Germany and France and are
excellent for rappelling and hanging belays.
(d) Ring, (f) Scellement, (nl) Ring, (i) Anello da calata, (s)
Ringbult, (pl) Ring, (j) ケミカルアンカー
- "Rock"
- Scream let out to warn people down below that a piece of rock
has been overcome by gravity. The loudness, number of repitions,
and / or panic in voice with which this word is uttered is often
an indication of the seriousness of the rock. In the UK, you're
more likely to hear "Below", beware!
(d) "Stein", (f) "Pierre" / "Cailloux",
(i) "Sasso", (e) "Piedra", (s) "Sten",
(j) 「ラク」
- Roof
- Seriously overhanging part in a climb (more or less horizontal).
(d) Dach, (f) Toit / Plafond, (nl) Dak, (i) Tetto, (e) Techo, (s)
tak, (pl) Dach, (j) ルーフ(水平ハング)
- Rope
- Long and round nylon fabrication. Climbing ropes are generally
between 10 and 11 mm in diameter (with the exception of "half
ropes" which are between 8.5 and 9mm in diameter).
(d) Seil, (f) Corde, (nl) Touw, (i) Corda, (e) Cuerda, (s) Rep,
(j) ロープ、ザイル
- "Rope"
- Should be yelled when a rope is about to be thrown to the
base of the crag (though most of the time it seems like "rope"
is shouted about 1-2 seconds after the rope is thrown).
In the UK, shout "Rope below".
(d) "Seil", (f) "Corde", (nl) "Touw",
(i) "Corda", (e) "Cuerda", (e-argentina) "va
cuerda", (s) "Rep", (pl) "Uwaga lina",
(j) 「ロープ落とします」
- Route
- A certain path up a rock or mountain.
(d) Tour, (f) Voie, (nl) Route, (i) Via, (e) Ruta, (s) Led, (pl)
Droga, (j) ルート
- Runner
- A loop of tape or webbing either sewn or tied (Aka sling).
(d) Schlinge, (f) Sangle, (i) Anello, (e) Anilla, (s) Slinga,
(pl) Talma ?, (j) シュリンゲ
- Runner
- A runner threaded or looped around chockstones, flakes, horns
or chickenheads for protection.
(d) Zackenschlinge, (j) ランニング・ビレイ、中間確保支点
- Runout
- Distance between two elements of pro. A route is "runout"
when the distance between those two elements of pro becomes uncomfortably
long.
(d) Abstand zwischen 2 Sicherungspunkten, (f) (Une voie est) Engagee,
(i) Via protetta lunga, (e) Ruta poco protegida, (j) ランアウト
- Saddle
- A high pass that looks somewhat like the horsewear. Not quite
as steep as a col.
(f) Selle, (j) サドル、ザッテル、鞍部
- "Safe"
- The British equivalent of "Off Belay".
(d) "Stand", (f) "Relais" / "Vache",
(nl) "Stand", (i) "Posto" / "Molla",
(e) "Libre", (s) "Lagg av", (j) 「ビレイ解除」
(注:米国では使われていない)
- Scrambling
- Easy climbing, usually unroped.
(d) Kraxeln, (f) Randonner, (e) Trepar, (s) Latt Klattring,
(j) 確保なしでできるやさしい登攀、2級ルート登攀
- Screamer
- A very, very long fall.
(f) Mega-plomb, (i) Mina / Randa, (j) 大墜落
- Screamer
- Special piece of equipment meant to reduce the impact of a
screamer (the fall) on the belay system.
(i) Dissipatore, (j) 墜落のショックを吸収するようにできたシュリンゲ
(人工登攀やアイスクライミングで用いる)
- Scree
- Loose rocks and stones that cover the slope below a cliff.
With every step, scree slides under your feet.
(f) Gallet / Ecaille / Pieraille / Rocaille / Eboulis,
(j) ガレ cf. ザレ
- Seal
- (f) Antiderapant / Peaux / Peaux de phoque / Peluches /
Peaux anti-recul, (j) シール(滑り止め)
- Second
- The climber who follows the leader. See also following.
(d) Nachsteiger, (f) Second de cordee,
(i) Secondo, (e) Segundo, (j) フォロー、セカンド
- Send, to
- To climb a route with ease. "I'm gonna send this route,
dude!"
(j) 容易に登る
- Sewing-machine leg or arm
- A leg (or arm) under tension that suddenly starts jerking
up and down like a sewing machine. Stretch the muscle, take a
deep breath, and don't think of falling... (see also: to Elvis).
(d) Nahmaschine, (s) Symaskin, (pl) Telegraf, (j) 震えた足
- Sharp end
- The end of the rope to which the leader is attached.
(f) Brin de la tete, (j) トップが結んでいるロープの末端
- SH** !
- Often heard during a fall... (Well educated climbers in the
UK sometimes say "sugar" - but only if they're not in
too much trouble).
(d) Scheisse !, (f) Merde!, (f-c) "Chite!", (nl) Shit!,
(i) "Merda!", (e) Mierda!, (s) Djavlar!, (pl) Cholera
/ Kurcze / Kurde, (j) くそったれ!
- Short roping
- Technique where both climbers are tied close together into
the middle of the rope. The rest of the rope is then carried over
the shoulders in a coil. Frequently used for simul-climbing. The
term (and technique?) is used frequently in the Canadian Rockies.
(f) Encordement en N, (j) N型アンザイレン(同時登攀時に不要なロープを肩に巻くこと)
- Short roping
- Belaying technique where the belayer keeps the leader under
tension in an attempt reduce the length of a fall. Tony Bubb will
gladly give you an expose on the dangers of this technique.
- Side pull
- A hand hold that needs to be held with a horizontal (sideways)
pull.
(d) Piaz-Griff / Seitgriff, (f) Prise verticale, (i) Maniglia
rovescia, (s) Sidotag / Sidogrepp, (pl) Odciag,
(j) 垂直ホールド、サイドプル
- Sierra wave
- A lenticular cloud (quite rare in the Alps).
(j) シェラネバダ山脈に起きるレンズ雲
- Sky hook
- (f) Crochet, (j) スカイフック
- Slab
- Flat and seemingly featureless, not quite vertical piece of
rock.
(d) Platte, (f) Dalle, (nl) Plaat, (i) Lastra / Lastrone / Placca,
(e) Laja, (s) Sva / Platta, (pl) pologa plyta, (j) スラブ
- "Slack"
- Yelled when the climber needs more rope (e.g. to clip into
protection).
(d) "Seil", (f) "Mou", (nl) "Touw",
(i) "Corda" ("Lasco"), (e) "Cuerda",
(s) "Slacka", (pl) "Luz", (j) 「ロープ出して」
- Slingshot
- A toprope setup where the belayer belays on the ground (where
the climber starts climbing) and the rope is pre-clipped through
the anchor at the top of the climb.
(f) Moulinette, (j) トップロープ
- Sloper
- Pathetic downward slanting hold. (Usually look like buckets
from below.)
(d) (Abschussiger) Aufleger, (f) Prise fuyante, (i) Appiglio
spiovente, (j) 外傾ホールド
- Smearing
- Foot technique where a big part of the climbing shoe is used
to generate as much friction as possible. The opposite of edging.
(d) Auf reibung stehen, (f) Adherence de pieds, (i) Aderenza, (e)
Friccion, (s) Smeara, (j) スメアリング
- Soloing
- Climbing alone, though not necessarily without the protection
of a rope (see also free solo).
(d) Solo klettern, (f) Soloer, (e) Escalar en solitario, (j) 単独登攀
- Sport climbing
- Climbing routes of (extreme ?) gymnastic difficulty while
protection oneself by clipping copiously numbered and generously
spaced preplaced free protection.
(d) Sportklettern, (f) Escalade sportive, (nl) Sportklimmen, (i)
Arrempicata sportiva, (e) Escalada deportiva, (s) Sportklattring,
(pl) Wspinaczka sportowa, (j) スポーツクライミング
(注:日本ではフリークライミングと呼ばれている)
- Stem, to
- Bridging with the feet between two holds.
(d) Stemmen, (f) Se mettre en opposition, (i) Opposizione, (e)
Oposicion, (s) Stamma / Sprajsa, (j) ステミング
- "Stick it"
- American slang meaning "hold on" or "go for
it".
(f) "Allez !", (e) "Asegura", (j) 「ガンバ」、「ガンバレ」
- Sticht plate
- A belay device consisting of a plate with two slots in it.
An original creation by Franz Sticht.
(d) Sticht Bremse, (f) Plaquette d'assurage / Plaquette descendeur /
Plaquette-frein, (f-c) Plaque-frein,
(i) Piastrina sticht, (e) Placa Sticht, (s) Stichtbroms,
(j) シュテヒト環
- Summit
- The top of a mountain or rock.
(d) Gipfel, (f) Sommet, (nl) Top, (i) Cima, (e) Cima / cumbre,
(s) Topp, (pl) Szczyt, (j) 山頂
- Summit, to
- To reach the summit.
(d) Gipfeln, (e) Encumbrar, (j) 山頂にたどり着く
- "Take"
- American monosyllable for "Up Rope".
(d) "Seil ein" / "Zu", (e) "Recupera",
(pl) "Wybierz", (j) 「張って」
- "Take in"
- The British equivalent of "Up Rope".
(d) "Seil ein"/("Zieh an"), (f) "Avale" /
"Avalez du mou",
(i) Recupera, (s) "Tag hem", (pl) "Wybierz",
(j) 「張って」
- "Taking in"
- Heard often in British crags, meaning the climber is "off
belay" and about to pull up the slack between him and the
belayer.
(f) "J'avale", (j) 「ビレイ解除」
- Talus
- Large blocks of rock. A coarse variation of scree.
(f) Gallet / Ecaille / Pieraille / Rocaille / Eboulis,
(j) ガレ cf. ザレ
- Tarn
- A small lake.
(f) Etang, (j) 池
- 10essentials
- That part of your climbing gear you don't want to leave at
home.
(j) 必須クライミングギア
- "That's me"
- Part of the climbing dialogue. Courtousy call to the belayer
to indicate that the slack in the rope is all taken up and that
further pulling is pointless.
(d) "Seil aus", (f) "En bout"/"Bout de
corde", (j) 「いっぱい」
- "Tight"
- The British equivalent of "Up rope" ???
(f) "Sec", (f-c) "a sec", (e) "Tensa",
(j) 「張って」
- Toe
- The bottom of a buttress.
(f) Socle, (j) バットレスの基部
- Topo
- A short drawing of the route. Good topos will allow you to
spot the line right away, show the placement of bolts and belay
stances, indicate where the crux is and what rating it has.
(f) Topo, (e) Topo, (j) トポ、ルート図(登攀ルートガイド)
- Top-rope
- Free climbing a route that has the safety rope attached to
the top of the climb (usually one walks to the top to set up the
top-rope belay).
(d) Toprope / Seil von oben, (f) Moulinette, (nl) Toprope, (i)
Corda dall'alto, (e) Yoyo, (s) Topprep, (pl) Wedka, (j) トップロープ
- Threaded overhand
- Solid but not failproof knot also known as water knot (or
ring bend when used on webbing).
(d) Sackstich in Ringform, (e) Nudo encontrado, (j) テープ結び
- Trad
- Traditional climbing, characterized by the placing of protection
(cams, nuts, etc.) in cracks and pockets. Trad also includes multi-pitch
routes often with long runouts..
(d) Traditionelles, Alpines Klettern, (f) Classique, (nl) Alpijns
klimmen, (i) Tradizionale, (e) Escalada tradicional / clasica,
(j) アルパインクライミング(プロテクションを設置しながら登るオーソドックスな
ロッククライミングで、"free climbing"も含む。スポーツクライミング
または"Rad"と対象する)
- Trad fall
- A fall during a trad climb, sometimes accompanied by the popping
sound of protection succumbing to the temptations of gravity.
See also 'crater' and 'screamer'.
(f) Devissage, (j) 墜落
- Traverse
- Horizontal climb.
(d) Quergang, (f) Traversee, (nl) Traverse, (i) Traverso,
(e) Travesia, (s) Travers, (pl) Trawers, (j) トラバース、へつり
- Trucker
- Synomym for 'Bomber'. A trustworthy piece of pro.
(j) 頑丈な支点/ホールド
- Tunnel
- A tunnel through or hourglass shape in the rock that allows
a runner or cord to be fed through for protection.
(d) Sanduhr, (f) Lunule / Sablier, (i) Clessidra, (nl) Zandloper, (e) Tunel,
(j) 三日月穴、砂時計穴(石灰岩面の貫通した穴。スリングを通して支点に利用)
- Undercling
- A hold that would be a perfect bucket if gravity were upside
down. As it is, underclings are usually awkward holds that require
lieback type moves.
(d) Untergriff, (f) Inversee / Aile de poulet, (nl) Ondergreep, (i) Presa
rovescia, (e) Undercling, (e-argentina) Toma invertida, (pl) podchwyt,
(j) アンダー・クリング
- "Up Rope"
- Yelled by the leader or the follower when she / he wants a tighter
belay. (In UK: "Take in" or "Tight" or even
"Watch me").
(d) "Seil ein", (f) "Sec" / "Avale",
(nl) "Blok", (i) "Recupera", (e) "Tensa",
(s) "Tag hem", (j) 「張って」
- Verglas
- Thin water ice on rock.
(f) Verglas, (j) ベルグラ
- Warm up area
- (f) Aire de preparation, (j) ウォームアップエリア
- "Watch me"
- Call to indicate the climber is about to do something stupid
-- like fall.
(d) "Pass auf", (f) "Fais gaffe", (nl) "Let
op", (i) "Occhio" / "Guardami bene" /
"Tiemmi tirato", (e) "Cuidame", (s)
"Beredd?", (j) 「気をつけろ」
- Water ice
- Ice formed directly from frozen water. Water ice is clear
and brittle and contains few air bubbles. Sometimes water is even
flowing around the ice. Can be found in the couloirs of the High
Sierra in autumn (and in many other places).
(f) Glace d'eau, (j) 水氷
- Water knot
- See tape knot.
(d) Bandschlingenknoten, (f) Noeud americain / Noued de sangle /
Noeud de raccordement, (e) Nudo encontrado, (s) Vattenknop, (j) テープ結び
- Webbing (tubular)
- Flat and strong strip of nylon, that is hollow in the inside.
(d) Schlauchband, (f) Sangle (tubulaire), (nl) Schlinges, (i)
Fetuccia tubolare, (e) Cinta tubular, (s) Tubband, (j) 中空テープシュリンゲ
- Webbing (loop of)
- A runner made of webbing.
(d) Bandschlinge, (f) Sangle (anneau de), (i) Anello di cordin
/ Anello di fettucia, (e) Anilla, (s) Slinga, (j) テープシュリンゲ
- Whipper
- A very long fall.
(j) 大墜落
- White ice
- Ice with lots of air bubbles that forms from melted-and-frozen
snow. Good climbing stuff.
(f) Glace poreuse / Glace bulbeuse, (j) 白濁氷
- Wind breaker
- (d) Jacke, (f) Anorak, (j) ウィンドブレーカー、ヤッケ、アノラック
- Woodie
- A homemade climbing wall.
(f) Pan, (j) 自家製人工壁
- Yabo
- As in 'yabo start'. A 'sit start' ???????? (I need some help
on this one)
- YDS
- Yosemite Decimal System. The North-American
rating system.
- Zipper
- A fall where the protection pulls out one after the other
as the leader succumbs to gravity. Often ends with a grounder
(or a cardiac arrest).
(d) Reissverschlusssturz, (j) プロテクションが外れる墜落
- Z-Pulley System
- Complicated rope setup that allows you to hoist heavy weights
with relatively little force. Excellent for recueing or hauling
bags.
(d) Flaschenzug, (f) Mouflage simple, (j) 滑車2個を使用して、1/3の力で
引き上げるクレバスの救助方法(注:滑車がなくてもカラビナ2個でもできる)
Back to Yuuko Yamaguchi's Climbing Page
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ご連絡いただけると幸いです。
山口 裕子(ご連絡先はこちら)
Last modified: 2006/06/04